Birdies, Bogeys, and Rolling Hills: What Every Lady Golfer Should Know Before Planning a Golf Trip to Scotland

Did you know that Scotland is known as “the home of golf”? Yup. While the exact origins of golf remain a topic of friendly debate among die-hard golfers, Scotland is where the game evolved into the sport we know and love today. Some say Musselburgh Links in East Lothian, one of the world’s oldest golf courses still in play is where golf originated. Others point to the Old Course at St Andrews in Fife, often regarded as the mecca of golf. And then there’s Leith Links in Edinburgh, where the earliest known written rules of golf were signed by John Rattay in 1744.

Historically, golf developed largely as a gentleman’s game. In 1744, a group of prominent golfers in Edinburgh organized the Company of Gentlemen Golfers—later known as the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers—and established 13 written rules for a competition at Leith Links. But women were playing too. In fact, the first formal documented reference to women playing golf dates to 1738 at Bruntsfield Links in Edinburgh.

The image is a conceptual/AI-generated image created by Renetta Smith as an artistic illustratiion of an 18th-century woman golfer in Scotlands early golf history. no more hiding ™ © 2026 no more hiding, LLC. All Rights Reserved.

The Original Rules of Golf Monument erected in 1996 in Leith Links, Edinburgh Scotland by the Leith Links Trust. Image courtesy of Erin Stowell. All rights reserved. no more hiding™ Aug 2026.

John Rattray Monument located in Leith Links, Edinburgh Scotland. John Rattray signed the Original Rules of Golf in 1744 in Leith Links. Image courtesy of Erin Stowell. All rights reserved. no more hiding™ Aug 2026.

Fast-forward a few centuries, and women from around the world now travel to Scotland to experience golf in its historic home. But as a woman golfer of color, I had a question that a website or travel blog couldn't answer for me: How welcome would I actually feel playing golf in Scotland as a non-white woman? So, in late 2025, I decided to find out for myself. For more about my experiences playing individual golf courses throughout Edinburgh, check out my blog Beyond the Tee Box: My Experience as a Woman of Color Golfing in Scotland coming September 2026.

Unlike many of the golf courses I’ve played in the United States, with manicured fairways, man-made lakes, ponds and engineered hazards, the Scottish courses I’ve experienced feel as though the game was built around the natural landscape. They offer beautifully maintained grasslands, naturally contoured terrain, rolling fairways, sweeping once-in-a-lifetime views and, depending on the course, rapid elevation changes with some surprisingly steep climbs and descents. Whether you're traveling solo, with girlfriends, or as part of a golf tour, playing golf in Scotland is unlike anywhere else in the world.

Merchants of Edinburgh Golf Club image courtesy of TripAdvisor

Merchants of Edinburgh Golf Club. Climb to Hole 10. Image courtesy of merchantsgolf.com

Golfing with Libby and Margaret at Merchants of Edinburgh Golf Club.

My daughter attended university in Edinburgh and has lived there for several years, so I travel to Scotland frequently to visit her and my grand-cat, Iphigenia. During my visit in December 2025, I began my quest to visit golf courses throughout Edinburgh.

But before I get into my golfing experiences and lessons learned, let’s chat about a few very important things you should know before planning your golf trip to Scotland.

A Few Things to Know Before You Go

• Scots are very friendly people. They are respectful to those who are kind and respectful to them, their traditions, and their property. Kindness and respect go a long way.

• Scots are proud of their country and its history. Being from the USA—or any other country—does not make you or your traditions better. It only makes them different. Respect their country, their people, their property, and their history.

• Scotland's weather is unpredictable. I have visited Scotland in summer and winter, and regardless of the time of year, I've learned to be prepared for cool temperatures, brief rain showers, and high winds. One minute you're comfortable wearing a T-shirt and jeans, and the next you'll be digging for your mid-weight rain jacket. Dress in layers. Carry a rain jacket and wear waterproof shoes. If you're golfing, waterproof golf gear is worth the investment.

• Scotland's infrastructure is different from what many Americans are accustomed to. Many streets are cobblestoned, hilly, and narrow, and the cars are typically smaller. The cities are very walkable for sightseeing, and public transportation—including taxis, trams, and buses—is readily available. But if you have golf clubs in tow, plan ahead. When ordering an Uber, request an Uber XL to make sure there's room for you and your clubs, or order a black cab, which have lots of cargo space in the passenger area.

• Accommodations may be different from what you're accustomed to in the United States. Many vacation rentals are smaller, may not have air conditioning, and can have limited storage. Heating is often provided by radiators. You may find twin or double beds rather than the larger beds common in American hotels, and the washer and dryer may be a single combination unit. Some rentals may not have a dishwasher.

• Pack only what you need. A few things I'm glad I had: a small battery-operated table-top fan, socks for sleeping, hand warmers, and warmer pajamas.

The foot of Arthurs Seat on Prestonfield Golf Club Hole 1. Image courtesy of Renetta Smith no more hiding ™ Dec 2025.

British golfers on holiday in Scotland warming up before tee off at Prestonfield Golf Club – Edinburgh. image courtesy of Renetta Smith no more hiding ™ Dec 2025

Golf Trip Preparations:

• Consider shipping your golf clubs instead of flying with them. For the ease of international travel, I use a door-to-door shipping service that specializes in golf equipment. For domestic travel, I generally schedule pickup about a week before departure; for international trips, I allow approximately two weeks.

Selecting a shipper you trust is important, but so is properly preparing your clubs for travel. Check with your shipping company for prohibited items and packing requirements. Some golfers remove their club heads and wrap them separately. I leave mine attached, wrap each club individually in bubble wrap, secure the clubs together with heavy-duty plastic ties, and place them inside a hard-body golf travel case with polyurethane lining. If you prefer a fabric travel case, make sure your clubs are well padded and the case is tear-resistant and waterproof.

I also pack one pair of golf shoes—with socks tucked inside—and a few lightweight accessories such as golf balls, tees, and ball markers in the case.

• Choose a lightweight golf bag that fits a standard push cart or electric trolley. Learn from my mistake: I purchased a full-size cart bag to use with a standard electric trolley. It was heavier than I needed and maneuvering that combination up and down Scotland's hills—especially in the wind and rain—was challenging. For Scotland, I recommend a lightweight, trolley-compatible bag.

• You don't necessarily have to pack everything before you leave home. Many online retailers operate country-specific websites and can deliver purchases directly to your destination. Because I travel to the UK frequently, I have a UK Amazon account and can order items that are sourced in the UK rather than carrying everything with me. If you plan to do this, confirm in advance that your hotel or vacation rental will accept and hold packages for you.

I schedule and pay for shipping online and arrange for the carrier to pick up my clubs. I never leave them unattended outside for pickup. If they're being collected from my home, I leave a note asking the driver to ring the doorbell so I can hand over the case personally. Depending on the shipping service you choose, you may also be able to drop your clubs at an authorized carrier location. Budget approximately $350–$600 round trip, depending on your origin, destination, service level, insurance coverage, and the size and weight of your golf case. Always verify current pricing and insurance limits directly with your shipping provider.

My Golf Course Experience: Lessons Learned

I've had the wonderful opportunity to meet and golf with Scottish lady golfers who were welcoming, patient, and great teachers when it came to reading and navigating each course. But there were definitely a few things I wish I had known before I agreed to play.

• You will likely be walking the course—so be prepared. Depending on the course, you'll either carry your golf bag or use a manual or electric golf trolley (push cart). Golf buggies (golf carts) may be restricted or unavailable on some courses, so don't assume you'll be riding. Check with the course before your tee time.

• Know the rules of golf—and golf etiquette. The basic rules of golf are universal, but knowing golf etiquette was just as important to my experience in Scotland as knowing how to play the game. Whether playing a social or competitive round, understanding pace of play, remaining silent when another golfer is teeing off or putting, knowing when it is your turn to hit, knowing where to stand—and where not to stand—repairing divots and ball marks, raking bunkers, caring for the course, and respecting other golfers all made it easier for me to comfortably join golfers I had never played with before. I believe demonstrating that I understood and respected the game played a role in being invited to play again, meet for tea and scones after our rounds, and establish relationships that extended beyond the golf course. Good golf etiquette travels with you.

• Learn how to operate an electric trolley before taking one onto the course. The push carts and electric trolleys I've encountered in Scotland are similar to those used in the USA and elsewhere. What I wish I had done was rent one beforehand and learn the basics: how to install and remove the battery, turn the trolley on and off, control the speed, and safely manage it going up and down hills. Learning all of that for the first time while playing made for a very exhausting—and somewhat embarrassing—round.

• A lightweight golf bag will become your best friend. I purchased a full-size MacGregor golf bag, and for Scotland, that was a mistake. Then I compounded the problem by overpacking it. I'm accustomed to carrying extra golf balls, rain gear, towels, snacks, drinks, and accessories. In Scotland, I've learned to keep my bag light because some courses involve steep climbs and equally steep descents. Every unnecessary pound eventually feels like ten.

• You don't necessarily need to play with a full set of clubs. I carried 10 clubs before learning that, for some of the casual/social rounds I was playing, I could have gotten by with five to seven clubs and a lightweight Sunday bag. If you're playing competitively or at a course where you want the full experience, check with the club about caddie availability and requirements.

• Wear comfortable, waterproof golf shoes with good traction. Your shoes need to handle uneven terrain in both wet and dry conditions—and, based on my experience, you should definitely prepare for wet.

• Dress in layers. Scottish weather can change quickly during a single round of golf. You may start out feeling comfortable, become warm while climbing hills, encounter a brief rain shower, and then find yourself cold when the wind picks up. Dress in lightweight layers that you can easily add or remove as conditions change. I recommend a moisture-wicking base layer, a lightweight mid-layer for warmth, and a waterproof outer layer that protects against both rain and wind. Avoid bulky clothing that restricts your golf swing or adds unnecessary weight to your bag. The goal is to stay warm and dry without sacrificing your ability to move comfortably.

• Consider a fitted, waterproof beanie instead of relying on a golf cap or visor. High winds can make traditional golf hats more trouble than they're worth. I learned quickly that warmth and wind protection can be more useful than dressing for blazing sunshine.

• Keep your rain gear lightweight. I packed a full-size umbrella along with heavier rain pants and a jacket. For the conditions I encountered, that was more gear than I wanted to haul around the course. A lightweight waterproof jacket that can be folded into your bag is much more practical. Check the forecast before your round and adjust accordingly.

• Don't assume the golf pro shop will be open. If buying course merchandise or souvenirs is important to you, call ahead and confirm the pro shop's hours. At some clubs, you may check in for your tee time at the clubhouse or bar when the pro shop isn't open. I also recommend arriving with the golf balls, tees, and other essentials you need rather than assuming you'll be able to purchase them immediately before your round.

• Ladies' golf apparel—especially plus-size apparel—can be difficult to find. This one surprised me. During my visits to golf shops and sporting-goods stores around Edinburgh, I found considerably more golf apparel for men than for women. The women's selections I encountered tended to stop at smaller sizes. If, like me, you're plus-size and curvy, bring the performance golf clothing you know fits you comfortably. I wouldn't plan on arriving in Edinburgh and building your golf wardrobe after you get there.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

• Ship your golf clubs well in advance of your departure if you choose not to fly with them.

• Scottish golf courses can be physically demanding. Prepare your gear—and your body.

• Keep your golf gear lightweight.

• If you're plus-size or curvy, bring the golf apparel you need with you.

Golfing in Scotland has challenged me in ways I didn't expect—from learning to navigate unfamiliar courses and unpredictable weather to discovering just how heavy a golf bag can feel when you're climbing a Scottish hill. But those challenges have also been part of what has made the experiences memorable. I've met wonderful women, played courses surrounded by history and breathtaking landscapes, made mistakes, laughed at myself, learned a lot, and become a more confident golfer along the way.

If playing golf in Scotland is somewhere on your bucket list, don't wait until you feel completely prepared. Do your homework, pack wisely, respect the game and the country you're visiting—and go experience it for yourself. You don't have to be a low-scoring golfer, but you must respect the course, the game, and the golfers you share it with. You may come home with more than a few lessons about golf…you’ll gain a few lessons about life in general.

For more about my experiences playing individual golf courses throughout Edinburgh, check out my blog Beyond the Tee Box: My Experience as a Woman of Color Golfing in Scotland available September 2026.

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